Lessons in Leadership

As a behavior consultant, I often see pets and people in dire straits. Maybe a dog has bitten someone or the first time or the seemingly angelic 12-week old puppy growled and snarled. Ack! Our stomach is in knots, we’re wondering what’s gone wrong or if there is anything we can to do right the situation. But you don’t have to wait for the train to jump the tracks before you take a look at your relationship with your dog. Relationship? Yes, relationship.

Many times, we get a puppy and take the “good dog owner” oath. We do our due diligence and take a training class for our new dog. Once we cross that off our list, we may not seek out training until something goes wrong. Or we chalk up any behavioral problems to being “dog problems” (but we all know it takes two to tango).

The concept of  “leadership training” is something that Veterinary Ethologist, Myrna Milani, DVM has been touting for years. Leadership training in relation to our dogs is usually a very passive process, which involves routinely interacting with the dog in such a way that they look to us to figure out how to respond to the world around them. For social animals in the wild, the decision making of a few key leaders can ensure the survival of many. For our pet dogs, having your dog look to you to make decisions can create a dynamic of trust, predictability and stability.

Often we engage in lots of micro managing, busyness and skills training for our dogs. But I don’t think that necessarily translates to leadership for our dogs. Being a compassionate leader or partner for your pet isn’t necessarily time intensive or dependent on having the best treats- why should it? I’m sure there are people in your life that gave you amazing gifts, but that doesn’t mean that they “won” your affection.

You’ve probably worked for bosses that were hardly “leadership” material, maybe they were constantly checking in on your project status, looking over your shoulder or asking you if you got the around to those “TPS reports”. Yeah, you got the memo. And then maybe you’ve worked with someone that allowed you to do your thing, checked in when needed, but really allowed you to steer the bus, fostered creativity and trusted you to do what you needed to do. I’d argue that makes for a much more stable environment, not to mention a more productive one too.

So what can you do to be a leader for you pup?

• Take a look at your routine: Does you dog do things to get what he or she wants on a daily basis?  And I’m not just talking about doing things that you are asking them to do, will they voluntarily offer eye contact without being told or prompted to go for walks, go off leash, to be fed, etc?
If not, start there!

• Enrichment and getting a bigger bang for your buck: Many dogs eat from a bowl and have free access to chew toys and food. Having your dog work for these items from a toy that dispenses food – like a Treat Stik or a Tricky Treat ball, (these are my favorites)- can be a great way to give them a mental work out. For strong chewers, try the Buster Cube.

Bones and interactive toys are a great way for your dogs to self amuse. And wait for a polite behavior before allowing your dog to chew to their heart’s content.

• Give your dog a life: Allow them to engage in activities that allow them to be…dogs! Hikes on a long leash, play in fenced areas, foraging in the back yard, digging, sniffing/tracking, tugging, opportunities to mark, checking “pee mail” and to communicate with the neighborhood pups. Remember- do you want to be a micromanager or the kind of boss that allows for creative license?

• Get a life! (Yes you!): Do things with your dog that you both enjoy. Relaxed dogs make for relaxed owners. I urge you to find things that you enjoy and you may naturally see more opportunities to just hang out with your dog or spend meaningful time with them, (when you aren’t worried about the to-do list in your head). If you carve out the time and make it a priority to go for walks, hikes or engage in play time, you may fine that you naturally get what you “need” to get done, anyway.

Count on the ebb and flow of the relationship. And when you feel like your relationship may be out of balance, take a look in the mirror and at the dynamic. Many times our dogs are a reflection of ourselves and you may just need the help of a behavior consultant (and a little leadership training) to get things back on track.

Leigh Siegfried is the Owner of Opportunity Barks Behavior & Training. Opportunity Barks offers behavior consultations, private lessons and semi-private group classes for companion dogs- from pups on up. Visit www.opbarks.com for more information or call 888-672-2757 (888-opbarks).

It’s never too soon to start working on verbal commands with your dog.  If your dog doesn’t obey verbal commands without a baby in the house, you can’t expect him to do so after the baby comes home.  Simple commands such as “sit,” “stay,” and “come” are extremely handy in every day situations, especially when a baby enters the scene.  Also if you need to juggle stroller-walking and dog-walking, be sure to teach your dog to “heel” long before the baby arrives.  Go on practice walks with the stroller so you can gauge how much you need to work on leash manners now, before there is a baby in the stroller.

While you may overlook playful mouthing and nipping now, it can quickly elevate to unacceptable behavior when a baby is involved.  Do not wait to get nipping under control and do not hesitate to hire a qualified trainer if your dog is still mouthing.
Beware of do-it-yourself training.  Often, people inadvertently make behaviors worse by misreading their dogs, or reinforcing the wrong behavior.   A wonderful trainer can be invaluable investment for soon-to-be parents.

In the months leading up to baby-time, start to act like a baby or toddler.  Yes, you read that right.  Act like a kid.  Make loud, sudden noises.  Make quick movements.  Squeal and cry!  Jump up and down.  Run around the house.  Be random.  All the while praise your dog while you’re doing these out-of-character things so he learns to accept the randomness that is going to come with having a baby in the house.

Also, now is a good time to make sure he doesn’t resource guard his food or toys.  (If so, pick up the phone and use the services of a good trainer!)  Place your hands in your dog’s food while he’s eating.  Try to take toys away from him.  Make sure he’s gentle when taking treats from hands.  See how he reacts to these situations.  During these sessions work on the “leave it” or “drop” command that will become VERY useful when your dog decides that your baby’s toy or food looks like a nice thing to chomp on.  Make sure to supply him with his favorite toys and praise him for playing with them.

Once you have the nursery set up, allow your dog to spend a lot of time in the room.  But, let him know what type of behavior is acceptable and not acceptable in that room.  If you don’t want him tearing through the room at 40 miles per hour when the baby comes home, don’t let him do it before.  If you don’t want him to play tug in the room after the baby arrives, don’t have tug sessions before.  Set the standard for what type of behavior you want to see in that room now.  (This can go for the entire house too.)

Now is the time to start to think about how your new schedule is going to impact your dog’s routine.  One of the main reasons dogs start to act out after a baby comes home is that they are simply left behind.  It’s only natural that your dog will get less attention because there are only so many hours in a day (and your baby will consume many of them.)  But fear not, hiring a professional dog walker has helped many local moms deal with the time crunch.   A dog walker can offer that much needed physical exercise that will keep your dog sane and calm.  (An antsy dog can lead to bad things!)  Most dog owners notice a significant change for the better in their dog’s behavior after hiring a walker, with or without a baby in the house.  Make sure that your walker comes with references, is bonded and insured, and meets your philosophy when it comes to pet care.  The more elite services offer added perks like 365 day a year care and some even have web-booking for moms-on-the-go.

Once the baby is born, if possible, bring home a blanket the baby has been wrapped in and present it to the dog with treats.  This will trigger a simple thing in your dog’s head:  Baby = Good.  Do NOT allow your dog to chew on or play with the blanket.  You may even want to have him “sit” or “down” before presenting the blanket + treat combo so he learns that being calm around the baby is rewarded.

With these simple steps before your baby comes home, you can prepare him for the big shock – the actual baby.   Training your dog is best done now.  Juggling a new baby and correcting inappropriate behavior after the birth is not only daunting, depending on the behavior, it can be dangerous.  The old saying is true, “A little bit of training now, will pay off later.”

Millions of kids “grow up” with dogs, and that’s not going to change anytime soon.  Why?  Dogs are amazing siblings for children and can teach them everything from daily responsibilities (feeding, walking, exercising) to lessons of love, friendship, and loyalty.

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1. This time of year it is ultra important to keep cats indoors.  (Here at Furmix, we are advocates for keeping cats indoors all year.  See why here.)  Cats can easily become disorientated, freeze, stolen (or accidentally adopted), or captured by animal control and end up at the shelter.  Cats are also vulnerable to deadly diseases such as Feline Distemper & FIV when roaming outdoors.
2. Cats often crawl under the hoods of cars to keep warm by the hot engines.  When people start their cars, thousands of cats die from the fan belts.  If you live in an area that has a large feral or outdoor cat population, lightly tap on the hood of your car before starting it.  It will alert, and hopefully, scare off the resting feline.
3. Antifreeze is absolutely deadly to cats (and dogs).  If possible, keep your cat out of garages to minimize the risk of ingestion.  Antifreeze often leaks from cars and one TEASPOON can kill a cat.  Even if you have an indoor cat, clean up spills and/or leaks in your driveway to keep neighborhood stray, feral and outdoor cats safe.  Antifreeze is scary example of why we advocate for indoor cats.  You can clean up after your car, and keep your cat out of your garage, but your cat could wander next door…
4. Provide your cat with a warm bed away from drafts and cold breezes during the winter months.  A pillow or warm blanket works wonders!  You don’t have to be fancy, just provide your feline friend with a warm place to snuggle up when the temperatures plunge outdoors.
5. During the festive winter holidays, remember that many cats go missing during family parties.  With all of the commotion, it’s easy for cats to slip right out the door, unnoticed.  Since it’s so cold outside, this can become a serious issue in less than an hour for a cat who is not used to the elements.  When having large groups of friends and family over, provide your cat with a safe room, away from the commotion to prevent door-dashing devastation.
6. As always, ID tags are crucial in the winter months.  If you cat goes missing when the temperatures plunge, you need to make sure he has a quick ticket home.  ID tags are that very ticket!  They alert neighbors that this cat is a house-cat that is lost.  Many people will simply walk past a collar-less cat thinking it’s just feral.  Keep tags on your cats at all times!  They can make the difference between a happy homecoming and an unexpected heartache.

You may also be interested in:

ID Tags – Your Pet’s Ticket Home

Keeping Cats Indoors – An Ecological Perspective

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Remember:  If cats CAN get into trouble, they often will.  Always supervise your cat when playing with small objects or string. Use common sense and have fun!

Boxes, boxes, boxes: Cats love them!  You can build forts out of cardboard boxes, play pouncing games around them, hide behind them, make them into cozy dens – the options are endless.  Our resident cat turns into a professional box-inspector when we receive a parcel in the mail.  When we leave town and our pet sitters take over, we leave out lots of boxes for extra-fun playtime antics!  If you’re feeling ultra creative, go at the box with a pair of sharp scissors and make peek-holes or trap doors for added excitement. Glue on metallic paper or beads for extra sensory stimulation.

Everyday Objects Turned into Toys: Try these on for size -  Beer bottle caps, wine corks, crinkled up pieces of tin foil (large enough so they are not able to choke on them!), plastic lids to jars, toilet paper rolls (without the toilet paper, of course), old pen caps, etc.  Grab any of these objects, and throw ‘em across a floor – and watch.  (And if you cat isn’t interested?  Great – at least you didn’t spend money on it!)  You can even attach any of these objects to string to make a super fun dangle toy.

String to be Used With CAUTION: There is no denying it, cats love to pounce on string and yarn.  However, never leave string, yarn or ribbons out for cats while you are not monitoring the fun. If cats swallow the string, it can cause life threatening medical complications due to bunching and knotting in the cat’s intestines and/or stomach.  Remember – use common sense when it comes to string, yarn and ribbon.  When you are not directly playing with your feline, keep this treasured toy away.  (It will make your cat more excited to see it the next time anyway!)

Cat Nip: I admit it – we are advocates for cat nip.  Our cat simply adores it and we always have it on hand!  Grow your own in a sunny window sill for a never ending supply of the good-stuff.  Note: Kittens under the age of six months will not react to cat nip. This is something for the adults to indulge in!

Tissue Paper and Paper Bags: There is just something about tissue paper that cats adore.  Maybe it’s the soft feel of it, perhaps it’s the distinct crinkle sound it makes when they pounce on it.  Take an Everyday Object Toy and throw it into a pile of paper, or dangle a homemade dangle toy over it and just wait for the fun.  Paper bags also provide enjoyment for felines, so after your next shopping excursion (& before you recycle those paper bags), reuse them as a cat toy.  Try scratching your fingernails against a the side of a bag and watch you cat inspect, and sometimes dart into, the bag!  (And next time, opt for reusable shopping bags.)  Never allow any pet or child to play with plastic bags.

Party Beads: Felines love the sound of these against a wood floor, so grab a string of party beads and watch the fun erupt.

Get Crafty: Grab a ping-pong ball (or any small ball), metallic paper and a glue gun.  Simply glue the paper to the ball.  Don’t worry how it looks, the more crinkly it is, the better!  Don’t have metallic paper?  Use tissue paper instead.  You can also attach it too a piece of string for a homemade pull-toy.  Go through your craft cabinet and see what you can come up with.  Do not offer your kitty any small beads or bells, and remember – use caution with any type of string or ribbon.  (We can’t emphasize that enough!)

Sew Your Own: For those of you who want to try sewing your own cat toys, it’s easier than you think!  Get some funky fabric and cut out a pattern of your choice.  This is when you can be creative – there are no rules, just make sure it’s big enough that it’s not a choking hazard.  Make a holiday tree, a fish outline, a donuts, or even a cat tracing!   Cut two sides, flip them inside out, sew the edges, leave an opening, stuff the toy with a mixture of cat-nip and fiber-fill and stitch up the hole.  Easy!   You’re very own, cat-nip infused plush toy.  Take it a step further and sew on some of that metallic paper for added crinkle-factor.

So before you spend a fortune on cat toys, try making some at home.  It’s always fun to make things for those we that love, even for those furry friends we love!  Playing with your cat is an amazing bonding experience and keeps them healthy, both mentally and physically.   But thankfully, it doesn’t have to be expensive.

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• Paw Priority: Keep an eye on those paws!  Salt and other chemical winter ice melters can wreck havoc on sensitive paws.  Watch your dog for signs of favoring or limping.  Sometimes snow will simply become compacted in between the paw pads and need to be picked out.   Sharp and jagged objects can also be hidden under snow drifts to when in doubt, stick to plowed or shoveled surfaces.  Dog booties are a great option to protect your dogs paws, that is, if he’ll tolerate them!  If not, just use common sense.  Don’t stay out for too long, keep an eye on the paws!
• Off Leash Dangers: Do not allow your dog to roam off leash after a snow storm. Dogs depend heavily on their sense of smell to return to their owners, and snow on the ground can completely cover scents.  Dogs go missing frequently when there is snow on the ground simply because they can’t find their way home.  Always be sure to have your dog wear ID tags – 24/7.
• Accessorize: Smaller dogs, and those with short hair should wear a jacket or sweater for longer excursions.  Not all dogs will tolerate wearing a jacket and if that’s the case, make trips outside short, and spend the rest of the time indoors!   But remember, most dogs, even those with long fur and jackets, cannot spend long amounts of time in freezing temperatures.  Do not assume that wearing a jacket means that your dog can be left outside for hours.  If you want to spend a lot of time outside, be sure to take frequent breaks in heated environment to warm up.
• Hydration:  Keep your dog well hydrated!  The more water your pup drinks, the more she will be able to regulate her body temperature.  This goes for humans too, so be sure to drink water before you head outside & frequently when you’re out and about.
• Eating Snow: Yeah, it’s cute when dogs eat snow.  Unfortunately, chemicals, salt and even antifreeze can be masked by snow.  (One teaspoon of antifreeze is lethal, and dogs LOVE the taste.)   Eating snow can also lead to hypothermia.  If your dog is eating snow, make sure she has access to fresh water.  She may just be dehydrated.
• When to call the vet: Hypothermia occurs when your dog’s temperature falls below 100.5.  Symptoms will include excessive shivering, lethargy and lack of coordination.  Frostbite is tissue damage caused by prolonged exposure to the cold.  Common areas affected are the tips of the ears and the paws.  Look for symptoms of pale skin that is cold to the touch.  If either of these are suspected, call your vet immediately.

Once you come in out of the cold weather, be sure to wipe off your dog’s paws with a warm, damp towel.  This will remove any residue from their paws and give you a chance to look for signs of irritation or frostbite.  Now, go grab a blanket and snuggle up with your best friend!

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What is FIV?

Is there a cure for FIV?
No. There is no cure, and vaccinations for the disease are quite controversial.  FIV is a tricky virus, and for that reason – prevention is crucial.

How do cats catch FIV?
FIV is usually spread through deep, penetrating bite wounds, which is why cats that are given access to outdoor areas are the the highest infected population. Sometimes a mother will transmit FIV to her kittens during gestation (passing through the birth canal) or when she nurses them. (Most kittens with an infected mother will test positive for the disease due to the exposure to the antibodies, but will not become infected.)

Can I catch FIV from my cat?
No. Feline Immunodeficiency Virus only affects cats. But humans are susceptible to opportunistic bacteria and parasites that might infect cats in later stages of FIV. (i.e. if your FIV-positive cat experiences a bacterial infection due to his/her compromised immune system it could be transmitted to humans, especially those with a compromised immune system. But FIV itself, cannot be transmitted to humans.)

How is it prevented? How can I keep my cat from being infected?
Keep your cats indoors. Free-roaming cats are one of the highest infected populations. If you let your cat outside, you risk exposing him/her to this disease.  You can control how often your cat sees the vet, how good his/her diet is, even how much exercise they get – all factors for a healthy cat.  But if your cat has access to the outdoors you CANNOT guarantee that your cat will not come into contact with an infected cat.

How is FIV diagnosed?
FIV is diagnosed by your vet using a FIV antibody test which is called an ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay.) It takes about 10-20 minutes to run. The vet will look for antibodies in your cat’s blood which are unique proteins that your cat’s immune system will produce after being exposed to the virus. Tests can be inconclusive, in which case your cat will need to be retested in another 8-12 weeks. False positives are also prevalent, so cats who test positive usually undergo a second test – a Western Blot Assay to rule out the false positive.
Kittens will often test positive for the disease if their mother had it, but it does not mean they will be infected, only that they have antibodies in their system due to their mother’s antibodies. Kittens who were exposed should be retested after they are six months of age.
A negative test result usually means that the cat has not been exposed to the virus. But, antibodies don’t typically show up in the cat’s bloodstream for 8-12 weeks after exposure, so a retest might be needed. A blood test might also find the following blood abnormalities in FIV positive cats:

• Neutropenia (abnormal decrease in the number of circulating neutrophils, a type of white blood cell)
• Hypergammaglobulinemia (abnormally high level of gamma globulin, a type of antibody, in the blood)
• Anemia (abnormally low level of circulating red blood cells)
• Lymphopenia (abnormally low level of lymphocytes in the blood)

How is Feline Immunodeficiency Virus treated?
There is no way to treat FIV.  Much like HIV, most infected cats will die of secondary infections due to a compromised immune system, so measures need to be taken to prevent infections by keeping the cats isolated from other cats, indoors and up to date on vaccinations.  Antibacterial or antifungal medications can be used to treat secondary infections, but as the disease progresses these secondary illnesses become harder and harder to fight off.  Antiviral drugs to treat the disease are available, but the long term outcome of such treatment has yet to be determined.   If veterinarians suggest antivirals, the cat will have to be monitored monthly to make sure red blood cell count & lymphocyte levels are normal.  In the later stages of the disease cats will need fluid therapy, blood transfusions and high calorie diet supplements.  Again, the disease is eventually fatal.

If my cat is infected, how long can I expect him to live?
The lifespan of a cat infected with FIV is hard to pin down. 50% of cats infected will show no symptoms of the disease after 2 years after exposure.  About 20% of cats will die in 2 years.  Cats that have entered the last stage of the disease usually only survive for a year.  The best way to keep your cat healthy is to keep your cat indoors, away from potentially infected cats.

Want more reason to keep your cat indoors? Check out this article on the Ecological Perspective of Keeping Cats Inside.

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Volunteering at soup kitchens and homeless shelters on Thanksgiving has become a bit of a cultural phenomenon in the past few years.  This year, why not join in the spirit of thankfulness and volunteer a few hours at your local pet shelter.  Yes, it will take a bit of planning, but the rewards are so worth it!   Remember – dogs and cats still need to be exercised, entertained and fed – even on Thanksgiving.  It’s no different in shelters.  It’s also nice to take the burden off the shelter staff, who work tirelessly all year.  Helping out on the holidays gives them a much needed break.

If you want to volunteer at your local shelter it’s usually as easy as picking up the phone or filling out an application online.   Finding a local animal shelter is easy.  Simply check out PetFinder’s Find a Shelter search & contact your local shelter.

Let’s give the homeless pets something to be thankful for this Thanksgiving.

Also check out Thanksgiving Pet Safety Tips

1.  While traveling, do you best to keep your pets on their normal schedule.  Are they used to going outside first thing in the AM, again at lunch and right after dinner?  Try to keep your pets routine as intact as possible, wherever you happen to be.  Bring along your pet’s favorite food, treats and toys.  It will give them much needed consistency amidst all of the excitement and change.

2.  Thinking of flying?  Puppies, kittens, pets in heat, older or sick pets should not engage in plane travel.  Many airlines are allowing pets into the cabin so be sure to ask if you can keep your best friend with you.  Remember -if your pet is fearful of car travel with you by his side, imagine how he’ll feel in a plane without you near.  It can be a very scary experience for most pets.  If your dog or cat is uncomfortable in a crate, you may want to leave your pet at home with a professional in-home pet sitter.  (See 9 Tips for Hiring a Pet Sitter)

3.  Never leave your pets unattended:  Treat your pets like you would a child.  Never leave them unattended in a car or tied to poles, benches or other public places.  Pets often go missing during the holiday season and while we often associate pets in hot cars with heatstroke & medical emergencies, during the holiday season many dogs left in cars face yet another danger.  They go missing, to become gifts.

4.  Size matters (with crates that is…)  Your pet should be able to stand up, turnaround, and lay down comfortably in his/her crate.  Keep a fresh supply of water in the crate along with a toy to keep your pet happy.  And frequent breaks outside of the crate will keep your pet the happiest.

5.  Take a short trip – to the vet:  Check with your vet to make sure you pet us up for long distance travel.  Your veterinarian might have some advice to make your trip successful.  Your vet could offer a sedative for your pet, but use any medications with caution.  There are also plenty of herbal calming remedies available for traveling pets.  Tip:  Remember to bring vet records with you on your trip out of town.  Some parks or hotels might require proof of vaccination.

6.  Watch for signs of stress:  Any pet under enough stress might act out.  Be sure to keep an eye on your pet to know when he/she needs a break. You wouldn’t want your dog to bite your four-year-old niece because your pooch was overly stressed from her routine being disrupted, or not enough sleep, or being in a strange place with new people.  Just as we all need down-time during trips, our pets need it as well.  So go on, take a nap – with your best friend!

7.  ID tags need to be worn even while on vacation.  With all of the commotion & excitement, many pets go missing during holidays and vacations.   Sometimes pets “return home” after and outdoor adventure, but in a new place, they won’t even know where to return to.  Be sure to have ID tags on your pets at all times, home or away.  If the phone number listed on your ID tags is not a phone number you’ll have access to while away, update that tag.  It might be the best $5 you’ll ever spend.

8.  Know your pet:  Does your pet need consistency?  Perhaps he/she isn’t a huge fan of change?  Then traveling might just not be in the cards for your best friend.  No worries.  There are thousands of professional and trained pet sitters across the country who will not only look after your pets, but also your home, while you are gone.  Many pets prefer to stay in their home environment with all of it’s familiar smells, sounds and, let’s face it – couches!   Boarding is also an option for less nervous pets.

Check out our 9 Tips for Hiring a Pet Sitter if you’re hesitant to bring your pet with you.  Stay safe this season!

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What do you guys think?  Has anyone ever taking a dog-yoga class?

‘’We’ve known certainly it’s possible this could happen,’’ said Centers for Disease Control and Prevention spokesman Tom Skinner in an interview with The New York Times. ‘’This may be the first instance where we have documentation that transmission occurred involving cats or dogs.’’

In early November a cat (13 years old) contracted the H1N1 virus from her owners.  This was a surprising development for the virus at first, but is not uncommon for human viruses to effect pets.  Two ferrets also caught the virus from their owners in Nebraska.  The cat survived her H1N1 sickness; the ferrets did not.

To prevent transmission to pets, act the same way you would to prevent transmission to humans.  Wash your hands frequently, especially before feeding your pets and cover your mouth when coughing and sneezing.

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